Looking forward: s. Green vegetables. Beautiful white ladies. A sense of style regained. Not being alone. Fewer bugs. Adventure. Overnight train rides. Planes. Not being called "toubab." Being able to show my thighs. Not sticking out nearly as much as I do here. Wearing makeup. Him. (May I say it again?) Him. Different currency. Wearing my backpack. Hiking. Camping. Campfires. Hats and mitts. Skate shoes. Being touched. Kissing. . Movies. Not sweating.

Looking back: Seeing people with things on their heads. Babies on mother's backs. Friendly, friendly, friendly people. Greetings. Mandinka. Wolof. Cheap food. Unprocessed food. Shopping at the market. The women I teach. Having a house to myself. Knowing a country. The ocean, goddam the ocean. Sunrises. Angela. Geoff. Relaxing. Heat. Not wearing makeup.

"You're not on an airplane," he said. "You're on a rocketship to a whole different world."